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Saturday,
October 04, 2003
In which I am terrorized by an enormous evil version of the Swedish
Chef, except he did not say "Bork"
Today
is Katia's birthday. Happy Birthday, Katia! So we decided to have
a literary day, then go get cheeseburgers. Unfortunately, this
did not work out as planned. We meant to meet on the Kazansky
Bridge at 10:30, but in a strange turn of events, I was not the
one who was late. Katia had an uncharacteristic catastrophic alarm
clock failure, and did not arrive until 11:30. It was okay, because
Kait and I told one another our crazy stories about Russia
(despite the fact that we spend a large chunk of the day together,
somehow we still seem to have adventures by ourselves. Russia
is a land of adventure!) and it would have been actually nice,
except that it was cold and drizzling.
By the time we got to the Pushkin House, my evil Russian mutant
tracheal bronchitis had taken advantage of the nasty weather,
and was making me pretty miserable. But we declaimed Pushkin poetry
in front of the Pushkin statue, and that made me feel much better.
I did the opening to The Bronze Horseman, complete with
hand gestures, in an excessively loud voice, but reciting poetry
in public is apparently normal in Russia, so I didn't even get
many weird looks.
We bought tickets to go in the museum, but Katia realized that
she had to be at the university for a meeting, and it was getting
really close to my doctor's appointment, so she and Kait headed
back to Nevskii and I did a quick tour of the museum. It was like
Mecca. They had Pushkin's furniture and correspondence
and his little statue of an African guy that he always kept on
his desk. And his library! Pushkin had The Library. Jessica and
I used to plan out the idea library - big fireplace, bookshelves
filled with smelly leather books, battered wingback chair, floppy
dog...Pushkin didn't have a fireplace in his library, and if there
was ever a floppy dog, it is dead, but besides that, it was almost
exactly my vision of the ideal home library. So, clearly Pushkin
and I are soulmates.
But it was also sad, because this is the house where Pushkin died
after getting himself shot in a duel. They had his death mask,
and the clothes he was wearing when he got shot, which was not
creepy so much as depressing. Poor Pushkin. They also had the
letter that humiliated him enough that he got involved in the
duel. I don't know that I would have started a duel over
it, but then again, I am not a hot-blooded poet, I'm a passive-aggressive
journalist.
Because Russia is crazy, the tour consisted of about four soppy-looking
young women (myself included) and about 8 punk-lookin' teenage
boys, who in the US would probably be sitting in a basement playing
Quake or cooking up meth, but here were sadly listening to the
story of Pushkin's death. Crazy!
I left at about 1:00 pm. Apparently at some point in the next
half-hour, a disaster occurred, because when Katia and Kait came
back, the place was sealed with police tape. No explanation was
forthcoming, Katia reports. Maybe someone stole Pushkin's bloody
shirt.
While I was there, I geeked out entirely and bought a little framed
portrait of Pushkin. Oh, it was only like $2. I felt really goofy
buying it, until the lady told me, "This is the last one of this
kind! And I'm down to six Pushkins total!" So I'm still a dork,
but I have dorky brethren. I'm going to put it on my bookshelf
with my family pictures when I get home.
On my way to my doctor's appointment, I saw the scariest thing
in all Russia.
I've seen It a few times before, prowling the streets. I don't
know what It is. It twirls the sausage links like numchucks, and
wields the frying pan threateningly. This isn't a very good picture,
because I took it while running away in fear. See the woman in
front of the Thing? She's using the common Russian method of escape,
which is "pretend I don't see the horrible thing and walk away
very quickly, avoiding police officers and trying to blend in."
She's not succeeding, because she is terrified. It's
that scary.
But the really exciting news of the day is that I figured out
how to make the internet work at home with my laptop! No more
shelling out exorbitant amounts of money to use the internet cafes!
No more toting data back and forth on CD! And, probably, no more
sleeping at night.
When looking for an internet card, I also ended up buying two
more Lemony Snicket books in Russian and a copy of Kurt Vonnegut's
Timequake in English. I have no willpower.
- declared by Liusia @ 4:28
PM
Friday,
October 03, 2003
In which I get a sort of a job offer, and miss Lenin
Today
at two, I tried to go to the press conference. I sucessfully
navigated the maze, but when I got there, a sweet little old
lady informed me that the press conference just got finished.
So, confused, I went to the office and asked. "Oh, it was moved
up to 12:45," Olga said. "You should have gotten an email."
Dur, I thought. I bet that was the email that I just got, filled
with question marks and squiggly lines, because my email program
doesn't read Cyrillic.
But it doesn't matter! Because while I was there, the head editor
of the St. Petersburg Times (the English language newspaper)
was also there! He was checking some data CDs out of the media
library or something, and complaining to Chris the Librarian
about how understaffed he was, and how he couldn't bring in
any salaried native English speakers from the US or Britain
because the Russian goverment was holding up his paperwork.
So like the forward little pain in the ass that I am, I budged
up and introduced myself, and asked if he perhaps needed a gofer.
He grilled me for about ten minutes about my job qualifications,
and how well I spoke Russian, and whether I had the AP Stylebook
memorized (I do.) Then he said, "Well, I wanted to start a new
column profiling important people around the city. Also, I don't
know if you would like to copyedit...you probably think it's
boring -"
"I'm an enormous dork," I interrupted, because I am very rude.
"I copyedit things for fun. I write all over my newspapers in
red pen."
"We can't start paying you immediately, but possibly soon..."
"I'm here on a student visa. I can't perform paid labor anyway,"
I admitted. The idea of actually bringing in an income was hugely
tempting, but not worth the risk of losing my visa.
So, to make a boring story that is only exciting to me short,
I start on Monday. I'm coming in after classes to help them
get the Tuesday paper out. So thrilling! I love getting the
paper out! I get to proofread things and play with computers!
And then we're going to talk about me actually writing actual
articles! And not to count my eggs, etc., but this could be
a really productive experience. Huzzah!
From there, I hopped the metro to go teach my English class.
When I got out of the metro, I found myself standing by a two
story tall statue of Lenin. At this point I said to myself,
surely I am lost, for I did not see a giant Lenin the last time
I was here. So I found a payphone and called the school, and
asked for directions. And I was told to walk past the giant
Lenin!
Do you know what this means?
It means that last week, I walked past a two story tall Lenin
without noticing.
I am truly becoming acclimated to Russia.
The class was bizarre, because the kids, despite being about
sixteen years old, sat quietly and listened to everything that
I said, and answered politely and intelligently. It was freakish.
Clearly, Russian schools are doing something right. Like putting
tranquilizers in the drinking fountains.
Next week, I want to do the thing where you play a song and
the students have to fill in the lyrics. I'm thinkin' it would
probably be appropriate to make the song related to the day's
topic somehow. So can anyone think of a song with lyrics featuring
household goods, appliances and/or realtors?
Yeah, that's what I thought. It's impossible.
- declared by Liusia @ 2:20
PM
Thursday,
October 02, 2003
In which the lunchtime routine is disturbed
Today
we went to Cafe Laima for lunch, like usual. But the entire
waitstaff had been replaced by different young women, and
they were wearing blue uniforms instead of yellow. The ones
not actively working stood in a neat row behind the counter,
waiting pertly and silently for potential customers. Clearly,
Cafe Laima has just held a Stalin-esque purge. It was pretty
creepy.
And the food wasn't any better.
- declared by Liusia @ 5:51
AM
Wednesday,
October 01, 2003
In which the master steals our toilet, and Laddie saves
the day
Yesterday
when I left home, the master had started work on
the new toilet. (Russians call the plumber the "master."
I think that is one of the more beautiful things I have
heard in this life. Contemplate it for a moment. It respects
not only his learning, but his control of the elements!
The Master! He can control the flow of water!) See, Sonya
had finally gotten fed up with our evil old toilet, because
sometimes, when you flush, the flusher thing comes off in
your hand. Also, sometimes it gets mad and squirts water
at you. So she went out and bought a new one. Then she called
Aleksandr Nickolaevitch, the Master. She used her sway as
the building accountant to make him come right away.
So, the Master came early this morning. Sonya introduced
me as her "foreign guest" and when he asked where I was
from, she said "Ireland" but he totally saw through the
lie because he glared at me anyway. Or maybe the IRA blew
up his grandma while she was vacationing in London. Maybe
he just hates shamrocks. Who knows? Anyway, I left when
he was just starting to work. But when I came home, I was
informed of the bad news.
The Master stole the toilet.
He took the old one out. Then he took all the tiles out
of the bathroom. Then, he left. The reason is unclear. So
now we have a new toilet sitting in the hallway, not connected
to any source of water, like a really fancy chamber pot.
Sonya suggested that I, being a "self-sufficient American,"
might know how to install the toilet. Once I had stopped
cackling, I declined her offer.
"But it's okay," she said. "We can use the neighbor's bathroom.
I have the keys."
Me: That's convenient.
Sonya: Yep. Would you like to go over there now?
Me: Not really.
Sonya: Are you sure?
Me: Yes.
Sonya: Really really sure?
Me: Um, yes?
Sonya: Because I'm going over there, and I'm scared.
Me: Why are you scared?
Sonya: I'll tell you later.
So, we went next door. Now, when she said "neighbor," I
assumed she meant the neighbor on the left, where people
actually live. But no, we went in the apartment on the right.
The first thing that I noticed was that it was in terrible
condition: cracked plaster, exposed pipes, soft spots in
the flooring. Now, I am a little bit spoiled, since Sonya
and Tolio seem to be part of the rare Russian middle class,
the kind of people who aren't wealthy but can, say, up and
buy a toilet when they feel like it. Their apartment is
cheery and well-maintained. But this neighboring apartment
was a serious rathole.
The second thing that I noticed was that the place was clearly
previously inhabited, but abandoned. While Sonya was in
the bathroom, I wandered around. The calendar was out of
date; the place was fully furnished, but the kitchen table
and the sofas were dusty; there was a bottle of detergent
by the sink, but the sponges were dry and shrivilled. Then,
it all became clear: I saw a photo of a twenty-something
guy propped up, with a glass of vodka capped with a piece
of black bread standing in front of it.
We returned to Sonya's apartment.
Sonya: (sigh) Okay, I'll tell you what happened.
Me: I think I know. Did someone die there?
Sonya: Whoa. Yes!
Me: A young man?
Sonya: You're like a detective! Note: Sonya is always
irrationally impressed when I manage to figure simple things
out. When I demonstrated mastery of the remote control,
she gave me a hug.
Me: What happened?
Sonya: He was depressed. About a month ago, he drank himself
to death.
Me: (inarticulate sad noise)
Sonya: You weren't scared?
Me: I figure, if ghosts are real, then exorcisms are real
too.
Then, she went for a walk, leaving me home alone. This gave
me the rare opportunity to watch something on TV other than
the news or a soap opera. I settled on Kommissar Rex,
which is about the best TV show ever. It's a German (I think)
police drama featuring a really brilliant dog! Like this
one time, the policewoman was trying to open a door, but
inside, there was a crazy contraption of a gun rigged with
wires and string to shoot at the door whenever it was opened!
But Rex snuck around and jumped in the window and, from
the inside, with his mouth, held the doorknob from opening,
so she couldn't let herself in and get shot! So Rex prevented
her from dying, until her male partner arrived and saved
her from her stupid female cop folly by opening the
door while standing off to the side or some such cleverness.
The moral of the story is that if you are a dumb female,
you had better have a German Shephard to make up for your
lamentable lack of a Y-chromosome.
I don't know how the episode ended, because Sonya came home
and declared it "too violent for Liusia" and turned on the
news, where they showed footage lots of bloody dead people
in Chechnya.
Other excellent Russian TV shows include the Russian equivalent
of Wheel of Fortune. It's pretty much the same
thing as US Wheel of Fortune, except in the Russian
version, the contestants bring the host bribes, and if the
bribes are good, he gives them hints to help them solve
the puzzle. The girl who brought him a nice belt and
then helped him put it on all suggestively got a really
good hint.
I also saw Who Wants to be a Millionaire the other
day. Except it's a million roubles, so it's really not as
good.
And we don't have a toilet.
- declared by Liusia @ 11:28
PM
In which I accomplish nothing
Yeah,
so, the press conference didn't happen today. It was rescheduled.
I called the office this morning to double-check the time,
and the person who answered the phone told me that the
conference was Thursday, but I figured that given my previous
phone experience calling them, and the fact that my Russian
is still pretty sketchy, I should probably go anyway just
in case.
Yeah, so, it turns out that the building is basically
a maze. I bet there is a minotaur in there somewhere,
or possibly Jack Nicholson wielding an axe. (Side note:
I found the building's carpeting to be the creepiest thing
about The Shining.) After asking about five people
for directions, all of whom gave me different instructions
or were lost themselves, I turned a corner randomly ran
into Olga, the girl with whom I did the original interview.
She was like, "hey, whassup? Come back on Friday. We rescheduled.
By the way, do you know how to get out of here?" So now
the press conference I'm supposed to go to is on Friday
at 2:00, which is less than convenient, as I have class
until three. But now I probably won't be going
to class, what with the not being able to breathe and
all, so I guess I'll be free.
I decided that as long as I'm probably going to suffocate
here eventually, I might as well enjoy some creature comforts
while I'm still alive. So I stopped in at the Dom Knigi
("House of Book") and went to their foreign-language-learning
section. In the foreign language learning section, they
have not only books on German, English and French,
but books in German, English and French. Since
I was feeling morbid, I bought a collection of Poe short
stories and a book by Ambrose Bierce.
Then, I headed over to the Republic of Coffee, which is
the Russian rip-off of Starbucks. The logo even looks
almost exactly the same. I ordered hot chocolate. Dude,
when Russians say "hot chocolate," they're not kidding.
It turned out to be a coffee cup filled with liquified
chocolate. Had I let it cool, it would have turned into
a candy bar.
And now I'm on my way home. Oh, what an exciting globe-trotting
life I lead!
- declared by Liusia @ 9:24
AM
Tuesday,
September 30, 2003
In which the evil spreads
I
will be lucky to survive this study abroad, I think.
So, I went back to the doctor, and it turns out that
the bronchitis has given me an inflamed trachea.
An inflamed trachea! Who the hell does that happen to?!
So basically, I hurt. And I'm more pissed off at Peter
the Great than ever.
In other news, the St. Petersburg Times lady emailed
me, and wants to give me a job, and is more than willing
to not pay me for it (heh.) Huzzah!
Russian Weirdness of the Day:
This will not be very amusing if you can't read Russian,
but it cracked me up. It's an Orc-Russian
Russian-Orc dictionary, based on Tolkien, of course.
This just proves that nerdiness is the international
language!
- declared by Liusia @ 3:04
PM
In which I go to the opera
My
internship is going to be cool, I think. So, I went
yesterday, and surprisingly, they were actually expecting
me, despite that fiasco
over the phone. I'll be going to a press conference
tomorrow afternoon, and I'm supposed to take notes
on it in English. I'm not sure what is going to be
done with those notes, but...you know what?
I'm not going to ask. I was also introduced to the
press library guy, Chris, who is also an American.
It was, admittedly, nice to speak English. He apologized,
because computer time there is pretty tight, and I
was like, wait, what kind of 'net connection do you
have? It turns out that they have an ethernet hub,
so I can bring in my own laptop and plug it in. This
is sweet, because it means I can do my work on my
own non-evil, non-file-eating computer. Also, free
internet. Huzzah! It's for work, but still.
He also suggested that I contact the St. Petersburg
Times, the local English-language newspaper, saying
that they are looking for journalists. Unfortunately,
according to the terms of my student visa, I can't
be paid for anything, but it would be cool
to do some writing for them for free and get the experience.
I emailed the hiring chica - we'll see what happens.
After I left, I met up with Katia and Kait, and we
got Pizza Hut for dinner. So far I've pretty much
avoided the McDonalds, but the Pizza Hut just calls
my name every once in a while. Mmmm, greasy horrible
deep-dish. With pepperoni! There is going to be a
Subway opening on Nevskii soon, and then I'm really
going to be in trouble. I like Russian food, but sometimes
a sandwich is just NECESSARY. And not one of those
freaky open-faced things with cucumbers and stuff,
either.
Then, we went to the opera! It's my first time actually
going to an actual opera - I've listened to a lot
of opera music, but not watched it performed in a
proper opera context. We saw Yevgeny Onegin,
and it was awesome. I really enjoyed the guy who played
Lensky. He was a cute little chubby guy with an enormous
voice, and amusing overacting. Onegin was appropriately
world-weary, and Natalya was all the lovely ingenue.
The best scene, though, was this random one in the
middle at Natalya's birthday party, where a guy wearing
a bright pink suit and dwarf boots (you know, like
from Snow White?) did a crazy Cossack dance and sang
a stupid song that was half in German, and half in
French.
The duel scene made me giggle, because Lensky was
singing all dramatically, heartwrenchingly, gesturing
to the audience and looking like he was going to cry,
and Onegin was sprawled in a chair, a vision of ennui,
boredly waiting for Lensky to finish his histrionics.
I half expected him to shoot Lensky midway through
the song without going through the proper duel procedure,
just to the the thing over with. Heh.
I like opera lyrics. Granted, I couldn't understand
them half the time, because a)people are warbling
away and b)they're speaking Russian, but it seemed
to be half actual quotes from the poem Yevgeny
Onegin and half dumbness. For example:
Lensky: long, dramatic, literary song about his
deep pain, challenging Onegin to a duel
Onegin: This is nonsense. I'm bored.
Lensky: more lovely drama
Onegin: Oh, shut up.
Hee, hee, hee.
- declared by Liusia @ 6:14
AM
In which I feel homesick for the weirdness that
is Wisconsin, despite the fact that I am enjoying
the weirdness that is Russia
Fire
in fraternity reveals secret room
And all this time there were secret cabalistic rites
going on at the University of Wisconsin! Who knew?
- declared by Liusia @ 5:43
AM
Monday,
September 29, 2003
In which the US government continues its, um,
"War on Terror"
So,
I just got a scary email. Apparently,
the US government has decided that us crazy ex-pats,
not being regularly exposed to the scary
press conferences and speeches frequently played
on television, or the constant Homeland
Security Advisory System updates (current
threat status: elevated!),
needed a little bit of shaking up, so they sent
out this email. Please, do peruse:
St. Petersburg, Russia
September 29, 2003
This is a warden message for all American citizens.
Please distribute it to your American friends
and colleagues. If you are a Warden, please notify
your warden group members who do not have e-mail.
If you need emergency assistance, please contact
us by e-mail at acsstpete@state.gov, by fax at
7-812-331-2646 or phone us at 7- 812- 331-2600.
PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENT - WORLDWIDE CAUTION
This supersedes the Worldwide Caution dated September
10, 2003. It is being issued to remind U.S. citizens
of the continuing threat that they may be a target
of terrorist actions, even after the anniversary
date of the September 11 attacks, and to add the
potential for threats to maritime interests. This
Worldwide Caution expires on February 25, 2004.
The U.S. Government remains deeply concerned about
the security of U.S. citizens overseas. U.S. citizens
are cautioned to maintain a high level of vigilance,
to remain alert and to take appropriate steps
to increase their security awareness. We are seeing
increasing indications that Al-Qaida is preparing
to strike U.S. interests abroad. Looking at the
last few months, Al-Qaida and its associated organizations
have struck in the Middle East in Riyadh, in North
Africa in Casablanca, and in East Asia in Indonesia.
We therefore assess that other geographic locations
could be venues for the next round of attacks.
We expect Al-Qaida will strive for new attacks
that will be more devastating than the September
11 attack, possibly involving nonconventional
weapons such as chemical or biological agents.
We also cannot rule out the potential for Al-Qaida
to attempt a second catastrophic attack within
the U.S.
Terrorist actions may include, but are not limited
to, suicide operations, hijackings, bombings or
kidnappings. These may also involve commercial
aircraft and maritime interests, and threats to
include conventional weapons, such as explosive
devices. Terrorists do not distinguish between
official and civilian targets. These may include
facilities where American citizens and other foreigners
congregate or visit, including residential areas,
clubs, restaurants, places of worship, schools,
hotels, outdoor recreation events or resorts and
beaches. U.S. citizens should remain in a heightened
state of personal security awareness when attendance
at such locations is unavoidable.
U.S. Government facilities worldwide remain at
a heightened state of alert. These facilities
may temporarily close or suspend public services
from time to time to assess their security posture.
In those instances, U.S. embassies and consulates
will make every effort to provide emergency services
to U.S. citizens. Americans abroad are urged to
monitor the local news and maintain contact with
the nearest American embassy or consulate.
As the Department continues to develop information
on any potential security threats to U.S. citizens
overseas, it shares credible threat information
through its consular information program documents,
available on the Internet at http://travel.state.gov.
In addition to information on the Internet, U.S.
travelers may obtain up-to-date information on
security conditions by calling 1-888-407- 4747
toll-free in the U.S. or outside the U.S. and
Canada on a regular toll line at 1-317-472-2328.
So, basically, terrorists could get us at any
time. Thanks for that news flash, US government.
Next time I'm in one of the "facilities where
American citizens and other foreigners congregate
or visit, including residential areas, clubs,
restaurants, places of worship, schools, hotels,
outdoor recreation events or resorts and beaches,"
I'll keep an eye out for any shifty swarthy types.
(That was sarcasm, by the way.) Don't go out to
eat, Americans! Al-Qaida will get you!
I wonder if trying to terrify people is really
the way to "win the war on terror?"
- declared by Liusia @ 8:33
AM
Sunday,
September 28, 2003
More Russian Street Sign Madness
In
this
post, I talked about the craziness that
is the Russian street sign. Saturday's walk
provided several more examples of street sign
weirdness.
I do not know exactly what this sign is telling
people to do. On the one hand, the red X would
seem to mean "do not enter." But on the other
hand, it seems to be saying that you can park
your cars there, if you park them with the bumper
touching the curb. A paradox. Also, I can't
read the middle word in the bottommost sign,
and I don't remember what it said, but I think
the first line says "automobile" and the last
line says "of the president of the Russian Federation,"
so there is another thing to wonder about. Perhaps
the combination of signs means Do Not Enter
Unless You Are Putin?
Then, you have this. This sign seems to be saying
"Don't Be Rectangular," or possibly, "Thin People
Not Allowed to Cross the Street."
Then you have this photo, which Katia took,
the real piece de resistance. She saw
it stuck on the back of a bus. The text underneat
means, "Keep your distance." She theorizes that
the skull in a wheelchair represents what will
happen to you if you do not, in fact, keep your
distance.
I love this country.
- declared by Liusia @ 10:31
AM
In which I see stuff. Huzzah!
So,
yesterday I met up with Kait and Katia for
an excursion. The plan: to see stuff.
We are very deep, intellectual people, you
know.
I really do not understand. All over the city,
there are these girls on horseback. Every
day, I see girls running around on horseback.
They don't seem to be giving rides for money,
and they definitely aren't mounted police.
They're just...riding around. Where do they
keep the horses? Anyway, this picture is kind
of amusing, because it shows a bunch of people
using horses for transportation...in front
of a metro entrance.
We decided to head north and look at stuff
on that side of town. Now, at this point,
I have taken about ten thousand pictures of
the Church on the Spilled Blood, because it
is just about the most impressive building
I have ever seen, but because this is my narcissistic
blog, I'm posting this picture because I like
it. Also, I took it while standing on
the grass, which meant that I had to
run away from a police officer after I was
done taking the photo. Apparently it is okay
to drink alcohol in the street here, but not
okay to stand on the grass.
We soon reached the Field of Mars. There,
there is an "Eternal Flame" that is kind of
an all-purpose memorial to anyone who has
died in a Russian war. But when we got there,
the flame was out.
So of course I had to take a picture of the
Eternal Flame not flaming. And as I was leaving,
a rather official-looking guy came up, and
asked, "Are you taking a picture?" Since I
was obviously taking a picture, I said, "yes."
And he said, "Okay. Your documents?" I thought,
"oh, Jesus," and went to dig out my passport.
And then he started laughing and patted me
on the back. "Just kidding, just kidding.
Have a nice day." And I was like, "thanks,
dick," but I just thought it instead of saying
it, because you can probably get some kind
of a fine for calling a policeman a dick.
Then, we went to see the Chizhik Pyzhik, which
is pronounced something like "Cheese-ick Peeze-ick."
Unlike many funny-sounding Russian terms,
this one is funny-sounding on purpose. The
Chizhik Pyzhik is a tiny little bronze bird,
stuck on a ledge halfway down the inside of
the canal across from the Engineering Palace.
The name means "little drinking bird," and
it's from a song about the drinking habits
of the engineering students. According to
the Lonely Planet Petersburg book,
f you drop coins on the Chizhik Pyzhik and
they hit the bird then sit on the ledge, you
can have a wish granted. (For example, "I
wish I would pass my next engineering school
exam, despite the fact that I went on a drunken
binge instead of studying.") But Anton says
that the book it wrong, and dropping coins
on the Pyzhik just means you'll return to
Petersburg. So there is a difference of opinion
about the Pyzhik. But I think everyone can
agree that "Chizhik Pyzhik" is a really goofy
name.
Katia says that people often fish for the
coins, and if there aren't enough coins, they
sometimes get pissed off and steal the Pyzhik.
Heh. Sha, when you come to visit, do you want
to try to swipe it?
I managed to get a 2 rouble coin to stay by
the Pyzhik. Then a boat full of tourists came
down the canal, and started pitching coins
at the Pyzhik (and us, of course, who were
standing on the side of the canal.) Scarier
than it sounds, my friends.
Then we went to the Summer Garden again, because
Katia still wanted to see it. Inside, Peter
the Great's house was open to the public,
and we toured it. It was really cute. Peter
the Great lived pretty humbly, really - the
house was only two floors, probably about
10 rooms, and they had barely any gilt or
marble, just lots of nifty gadgets, like a
giant barometer. Also, being the progressive
advanced guy he was, he had a toilet. Kait
has a historical crush on Peter, so I took
her picture standing next to Peter's toilet.
For some reason, the fence around the Summer
Garden consists of medallions of Medusa with
a knife stuck in her head. Hmm.
We headed across the Neva, with the goal of
seeing Peter's little cabin that he built
all by himself to live in while Petersburg
was first being constructed. The cabin was
closed, so we only saw the outside, but we
ended up seeing some other stuff.
For example, there was a park with a big rock
in it.
The big rock was labelled "Prisoners of the
Gulag" on one side, and something to the effect
of "victims of Communist terror" on the other.
I don't think it's a very good monument, though.
I mean, the rock isn't even that big - it's
about the size of a really big cow.
Then we walked past the Blue Mosque, cleverly
named, as it is bright blue, and a mosque.
It is extremely pretty. Kait declared it "the
coolest thing I've ever seen! Today." Apparently
you can get inside if even if you are not
Muslim, if you are dressed appropriately and
manage to convince the door guy that you are
a student of Islamic architecture or something.
But I was wearing pants and had loose hair,
and the word "minaret" is the extent of my
Islamic architectural knowledge, so I decided
it's probably best not to try.
Our troika next took the metro to St. Issac's
Cathedral. We pretended to be Russians, so
as to get the Russian price instead of the
dirty foreigner price. Russian ticket sellers
are tricky. For example, here is a sign that
says "Entrance to the Museum" in Russian on
top, and then "Entrance to the Museum" in
English directly below, with the arrow pointing
the opposite direction. This is so they can
weed out the dirty foreigners, at least the
ones that don't read Russian.
This is a picture of the roof over the entrance.
It doesn't really have any significance, except
that it shows of my breathtaking photography
skillz. Whooo.
The interior was so stunning that when I was
looking up I literally almost fell over, because
I was so distracted by the beauty that my
brain forgot all about my inner ear balancing
organs. My favorite thing about it, though,
was relatively tiny - at the center of the
main dome, there is a circular opening in
the middle of the mural, revealing a sparkling
silver dove hanging from the very apex above.
So all in all, the walk was totally worth
all the smog I had to inhale whilst walking.
Huzzah!
- declared by Liusia @ 9:28
AM
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